Assembling Separate Track Links

Introduction:

Currently, one of the main issues that modelers feel reluctant to challenge is the assembly of separate track links for AFV models. As the required assembly creates more work and more difficulty for the modeler compared to one-piece vinyl tracks, modelers question the need to use separate track links. Despite the extra work required, however, separate track links create a much more authentic look compared to single-piece vinyl tracks; properly assembled separate tracks links will grant an aesthetic finish on the completed model, something vinyl tracks can not accomplish

As is the case for many items in the industry, there are several alternatives to choose from when it comes to separate track links. These include Fruil track sets which are produced from metal and are fully workable, Modelkasten track sets produced from quality plastic with high levels of detail and of course standard separate track sets that are included in the kits or that are sold separately by mainstream manufacturers. Since the assembly required for Fruils or Modelkasten track sets are entirely different fields, this article will only focus on the assembly of standard plastic separate track links.

Before we begin, it is worth mentioning that there are several methods for assembling separate track links. Among the generally known are assembling tracks on the already attached road wheels, assembling tracks completely before painting, carrying out assembly on the unattached road wheels or assembling and painting the tracks separately from the model. The method we will talk about here is not the best, the most correct or the simplest method of all. The best, simplest and the most correct method is and should be the one the modeler can choose for himself and use with confidence and ease.

First of all, let’s review the types of standard separate track links. Model tracks usually keep the shape and the operating principle of their originals and are modeled according to this. In line with this, a distinction can be made between single-piece and double piece tracks. Single-piece tracks contain only one type of track and the entire length of the track is crated by connecting these singular pieces. Double-piece tracks, however, contain two pieces that are different and should be fitted to each other. For convenience, we will refer to these pieces as “male” and “female”. To create the length of the track, these male and female pieces should be coupled one after the each other.

For assembly, the notched side of the track link is connected to the slotted part of the following link for single-piece tracks and the track is created by connecting individual links in this manner. For double-piece tracks, however, male pieces should connect to females, in turn this female pieces should be connected to males, the track being created in a male-female-male-female order.

Modeler opinions vary on how to glue these track links together. Some modelers prefer to glue each individual link and keeping adding and gluing individual links, while other prepare the entire track and then glue them all at once on the connection points. I prefer applying small drops of glue to the connection points and add tracks individually, this way I can avoid unnecessary glue stains from the beginning.

Before we move onto the application stage, I should mention two important points. The first one is molding seams. As usual with many kit parts, many tracks from manufacturers contain varying amount of molding seams. The amount and the level of these will depend on the age of the mould, manufacturer quality and the cost. These molding seams create an important problem; they might suddenly stand out saying “Yoo-hooo” in a perfectly finished model if you are not careful. If you want to build a clean and proper model or if you are obsessed about these things, you should get rid of these seams with patience and care. If, on the other hand, you know how to hide these seams or you don’t really care, you are welcome to skip this tedious and boring step.

The other important point to keep in mind is the positioning of the tracks. This is a crucial point for the authenticity of the model. One should be always careful about how the tracks are originally attached to the vehicle, keeping in mind the separate characteristics of each track. The shape of the track or the marks and direction of track horns can be used as vital clues for the positioning. A little reference work and research at this stage can work wonders for your tracks and prevent careless mistakes.

Here in this photo, the tracks for a Panther tank can be observed. The marks at the bottom of the track will tell us in which direction should the tracks be positioned. The instructions for the model kit or the picture on the model’s box should also help us to get information about the position of the tracks.

Now, onto the application stage:

Application:

For application, DML’s King Tiger kit (#6208) with double-piece type tracks was used

Required Equipment:

• Separate track links to be assembled
• Glue
• Sanding paper/stick
• Acetate Pen
• Ruler
• Tweezers

First of all, we should remove the road wheels and the tracks from the sprues. Special care should be taken not to damage the parts in this step. After this is the required cleaning, the molding seams should be removed with a thin sanding paper. The tracks used also contain seams so they will require cleaning. One set of seams are at the bottom of the road wheels, while the other set is on the outward facing side of the tracks, potentially creating a risk to ruin my model. However, since I plan to build a vehicle on an earth surface with lots of mud and dirt, these seams will be invisible. As a result, no cleaning is required. Also, it should be better to transfer the cleaned up pieces to a box so they nothing gets lost.

Now to the primary work:

We dip our tracks in warm water prior to cooking and then… just joking! We separate the tracks into two groups as male and female pieces. After that, we start assembling the track links using one from each group in order. Here comes our handy steel ruler into action, as a priceless tool… To achieve a straight track, it is very important to check our progress with a steel ruler; you should proceed with care while assembling tracks so that they are not crooked. Keeping my handy ruler by my side, I assembled a length of track that can cover the distance of the wheels from one end to the other. I glued the track links together using Revell’s needle pointed glue. I applied little drops of glue to the track teeth and proceeded. Assembling little groups of 2 or 3 links, I then joined these larger pieces to get the necessary length of track.

When the length was enough to cover the distance from the front to the back, I placed this track piece on the bottom of the road wheels, but I didn’t glue it in place. I carefully checked to see that the track was reaching the mid points of the front and rear road wheels. Then, I carefully marked these points with an acetate marker, so that I can see where the next pieces of track will be attached and take correct measurements and I won’t have to try to bend and shape this long track piece (the glue will already be dry by the time I assemble the next piece). An important note here, as you can see the tank now rests on the track piece. We must place something or similar height, like spare track links on the other side, under the road wheels. Otherwise, the tracks will be crooked and twisted.

Now, it is time to roll our tracks around the front sprocket. I took 3-5 pieces of track, glued them together and placed them on the sprocket to give them their final shape. Important! I didn’t glue them onto the sprocket; I need to remove them for further progress! The important trick here is to form a track piece only enough to go half-way around the sprocket, as otherwise it will be impossible to remove the pieces and reattach them. You must always place this piece of tracks in the place between the upper half of the sprocket down in a semicircle, never in any place than the upper half and never more than a semicircle. Satisfied with this new track piece and its shape, I removed this piece before it is dry together with the first long piece from the tank. I glued them together separately, then placed the sprocket into the tracks. Finally, I glued this entire sprocket&track onto the tank and checked the shape of the tracks around the sprocket, making sure they were properly attached.

I now repeated the process for the rear, making sure the track links fitted really well on the rear roller. After that, I assembled a long piece of track to cover the distance from the rear to the front sprocket. Since the tracks can be adjusted before the glue completely dries off, you can easily make adjustment for the most realistic look.

Lastly, we need our last track piece that will cover the area between the upper half of the front sprocket and the front road wheel. I assembled a length of track and first fitted it to the sprocket side, then to the road wheel side. There just be enough space to work around, but a pair of tweezers would be very helpful at this stage.

Now, one side of the tank is completed and the normally, the other side is just a repetition of these steps. However, I intend to make a tank which was abandoned as its tracks were broken. This should be an interesting piece of work, showing us the real value of separate track links compared to vinyl tracks. Fruil tracks, which are metal, are best for this sort of modeling work in my opinion, but here I will show that injection molded tracks also work just fine.

To achieve a realistic look for my project, I went through lots of references and photos to understand why tracks break and how they look when they do break. After that, I started working. I first counted the number of tracks I used on the front, this is necessary as using too much or too little amount of tracks will result in a silly, unrealistic look. After determining the necessary amount, I sent the rest of the track links into the spares bin, you never know when you might need spare tracks!

I assembled a long piece at the beginning, similar to my first step for the other side, but this time I kept this piece a little shorter, keeping in mind that some of the track will be broken off. I placed the track piece halfway on the rear road wheel and made my mark with my acetate marker, again not gluing the track onto the road wheels. After that, I assembled another piece that will reach up to the rear roller and glued this onto the bottom track. My guide mark allowed me to make slight adjustments.

I assembled more track links to go around the rear roller, without gluing them onto the roller itself, I gave them their shape. Be sure to keep that “starting midway, semicircle rule” in mind! It is very important to make sure the tracks fit well onto the rear roller, as the sprocket is at the front it will pull the tracks taut at the rear end. After taking measure of its length to ensure it goes around the rear roller, I removed this track piece to glue it onto the other track assemblies. After that, I placed the rear roller into these tracks and then glued the entire assembly onto the tank itself.

After that, I started adding small pieces and going slowly. I tried to create a lot of sag, as if it was caused by the tracks suddenly being broken.
I moved from rear to the front, assembling small pieces of track and gluing them on. At some places, I tried to create an exaggerated look and finally I reached the front of the tank. A special note, the front sprocket should not be glued into place, we will use it separately.

Now, I stopped adding tracks onto the vehicle. Instead, taking the front sprocket, I started assembling track links onto it. Assembling a semi-circle again, I tried a dry-fit to see if it fitted well with the already assembled tracks on the tank. I made necessary adjustments to the links so that they will dry in correct angles and shapes. The track links that are going round the sprocket are not glued onto the sprocket or the tracks on the tank, keep in mind that they will remain so until the very end of the construction.

At this stage, I marked the places where the tracks on the sprocket meet the actual track assemblies, then I started building the broken part where the tracks will sag from the sprocket. Since the tracks on the sprocket were not glued into place, I removed them and added the sagged tracks directly onto these. I lifted the tank and placed it on height. Putting the sagged portion back on, I gave the links their final shape. After that the tank was placed on a smooth surface for the final adjustments and I was done. I also put 2-3 pieces of track aside, to place them on the ground in my diorama.

Here’s the final shape, the model will look like this upon completion :

To achieve successful results, it is important to practice and obtain experience, as in other fields of modeling. If you have any comments or questions, feel free to contact me. Lastly, don’t be afraid of separate track links and start assembling!
Keep on modeling,

Özgür Güner
February, 2008